Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon | HANDS ON

Jamie Weiss

Ulysse Nardin is a mannequin of extremes. On the one hand, they make very traditionally styled gadgets, paying homage to these found of their marine chronometer-inspired Marine assortment or the minimal (and sometimes erotic) designs of the Classico assortment. Alternatively – and perhaps what they’re best recognized for as of late – they deal in avant-garde, high-tech creations, such as a result of the well-known Freak range or their fashionable Diver selections. The Blast definitively belongs throughout the latter camp, offering large diameters and horological treats for the eyes, whether or not or not that’s updated takes on marquetry, astronomical units or spectacular tourbillons, two of which we’ll research on this text.

The case

As of publishing, there are 8 utterly totally different variations of the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon, in a variety of case supplies and coloration combos, nevertheless at current we’re going to take a look at two of primarily probably the most emblematic fashions: one which’s pretty sporty, and one which leans additional dressy. The earlier accommodates a case made solely from black DLC titanium, whereas the latter’s case is primarily 18ct rose gold with some titanium elements, paying homage to its blue DLC titanium bezel.

No matter a significantly intimidating 45mm diameter, the Blast Tourbillon is simply 12.6mm thick, with its lugs making a slight camber that correctly situates the watch in your wrist, flowing correctly into its built-in rubber strap.

In black DLC, it seems villainous and foreboding, like one factor Black Manta would placed on. In rose gold, nonetheless, the deep brushing of its excessive surfaces combined with its darkish blue accents supplies it a extraordinarily royal look.

The dial

Referring to talking about watches with skeletonised actions, it’s pretty exhausting to separate discussing the dial from discussing the movement, as they’re truly one and the similar. Nonetheless, merely sooner than I dive into explaining why the Blast Tourbillon’s movement is so noteworthy, I’ll have a stab at talking about its dial aesthetics. The armatures of the movement sort an rectangular letterbox kind throughout the centre of the dial, crisscrossed by an X-shaped development: these harsh angles inside a spherical watch case create a inserting look.

I acknowledge the fragile variations in colouring and ending between these two fashions, too. For the blue/gold model, these armatures are uniformly blue, with a gold rehaut, indices, arms and tourbillon plus a gold ring throughout the rotor gearing providing pops of distinction. As in contrast, the black model supplies hits of devilish purple amongst its largely murdered-out look, whereas blacking out movement elements such as a result of the central rotor gear and stem mechanism that the blue/gold model leaves in bare metal.

These delicate variations converse to Ulysse Nardin’s consideration to ingredient, differentiating the utterly totally different colourways of the similar watch in small however important strategies. I moreover acknowledge how legible every fashions keep. Some skeletonised watches each don’t go far ample in exposing their actions (or are technically not even skeletonised), whereas others sacrifice usability in favour of additional dramatic openworking. UN has found a contented medium proper right here.

The movement

So, let’s converse regarding the movement current in these two Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillons! It’s known as the UN-172, and boasts a micro-rotor seen on the dial aspect at 12 o’clock and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which may be very anti-magnetic as a result of an escapement wheel, anchor, and stability spring all made out of silicon, a fabric Ulysse Nardin is a pioneer in using. The Blast Tourbillon is unquestionably the first Ulysse Nardin Skeleton model that features an computerized tourbillon.

Ulysse Nardin normally makes use of X-shaped motifs of their watches, and the X-shaped armatures of the movement are repeated throughout the UN-172’s tourbillon’s X-shaped cage, which is far more open than most tourbillons. Watching the purple silicon escapement wheel dance off-centre as a result of the tourbillon rotates is an precise cope with, as is being able to see the rotor spin from the dial aspect. Typically, it’s a extremely aesthetically pleasing movement.

The UN-172 moreover benefits from a weekend-proof 72-hour vitality reserve, although this comes on the expense of frequency, beating at a significantly leisurely 2.5 Hz. Nonetheless, I’d personally commerce frequency for vitality reserve any day of the week.

The straps

Every of these variants of the Blast Tourbillon come mounted on built-in rubber straps, which have butterfly clasps made out of titanium paired with case material-matching buckles. The blue/gold model’s strap has a velvet inlay on its larger aspect, whereas the black model can have each a wholly rubber strap with a hobnail larger texture (pictured on this text) or an larger with a black alligator leather-based inlay. I’m not a fan of pairing distinctive leathers with rubber; counter-intuitively, it makes a watch look cheaper than it is, for my part at least.

The choice

Ulysse Nardin does visually dramatic watchmaking larger than most, nevertheless it takes one factor very explicit to go up in opposition to the Freak. Realistically, I consider that’s what potential purchasers shall be doing – they’ll be internally cross-shopping. Weirdly though, I consider what the Blast Tourbillon affords is a additional legible and customary watch than a Freak, nevertheless doesn’t skimp on being visually spectacular. It’s solely a really cohesive design.

As for the blue/gold versus the black, I’d possibly go for the earlier, as I consider it’s merely additional eye-catching. Nonetheless, I like how evil the black model seems too… And if neither is to your fancy, there are moreover plain titanium, ceramic and iced-out white gold variations obtainable, amongst others. Identify it a Blast wave…

Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon pricing and availability

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon range is obtainable now from Ulysse Nardin retailers. Worth: US$56,100, CHF 53,200, A$92,100 (black DLC titanium, purple dial), US$67,300, CHF 63,800, A$110,300 (rose gold, blue dial)